Understanding the Differences and Myths

For centuries, diamonds have symbolized love, commitment, celebration, and achievement. Natural diamonds take billions of years to form, while today, advances in technology have introduced lab diamonds which can be grown in a matter of weeks. Both natural and lab-grown diamonds are genuine diamonds. The key distinction lies not in what they are, but in where they come from (Gemological Institute of America [GIA], n.d.; Federal Trade Commission [FTC], 2018).

We have chosen to use lab diamonds across all of ORYS’ designs. They give us more freedom to try cuts never seen before. Backed by the knowledge of generations of diamond cutting mastery we’re here to answer any burning questions you might have if you’re interested in buying diamond jewelry: What is the difference between how lab diamonds vs natural diamonds are created? What qualities do they share? Do natural diamonds or lab diamonds best reflect your values?

Image credit: ORYS.

What is a Diamond and What Makes a Diamond so Hard?

A diamond is a natural mineral made of pure carbon atoms, arranged in a rigid crystal lattice structure. This exceptionally ordered three-dimensional lattice is known as a face-centered cubic crystal structure. In this arrangement, each carbon atom forms four strong covalent bonds with neighboring carbon atoms, creating one of the most stable atomic structures found in nature. It is this tightly bonded lattice that gives diamonds their extraordinary hardness, durability, and optical properties.

This atomic structure is responsible for diamonds ranking 10 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, making them the hardest naturally occurring material on Earth. Their rigid crystal lattice also allows light to travel through the stone with minimal scattering before being reflected and refracted back to the eye. Combined with a diamond's precise cut, this high refractive index and strong dispersion produce the exceptional brilliance, fire, and scintillation that have made diamonds one of the world's most prized gemstones.
Natural and lab diamonds share the same chemical composition, crystal structure, optical properties, and hardness. In fact, they are so similar that specialized laboratory equipment is required to determine their origin (GIA, n.d.).

Consumers evaluate diamonds using the 4Cs: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. Cut influences how brilliantly a diamond reflects light, color measures the presence or absence of color, clarity evaluates internal and external characteristics, and carat refers to weight. Understanding these characteristics helps buyers compare diamonds regardless of how they were created (GIA, n.d.).

How Long Does It Take for a Diamond to Form?

Natural diamonds are formed deep within the Earth's mantle under extreme heat and pressure. Diamonds can take between one and three billion years to form into the roughs that we mine today. Volcanic activity gradually transports them closer to the Earth's surface, where they can be mined today (U.S. Geological Survey [USGS], n.d.).

Their extraordinary age and rarity have contributed to their enduring appeal. For many people, a natural diamond represents a tangible connection to Earth's geological history.
This sense of rarity, combined with centuries of cultural significance, has made natural diamonds enduring symbols of luxury, permanence, and tradition.

What is a Lab Diamond?

Lab diamonds are created in controlled laboratory environments using advanced technologies that replicate the conditions under which natural diamonds form. The two primary methods are High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD), both of which produce genuine diamonds with the same fundamental properties as natural stones (GIA, n.d.; Balmer et al., 2009). ORYS lab diamonds are grown in laboratories around the world, using either CVD or HPHT methods.

Did you know that the two methods produce differently shaped lab diamond roughs? CVD roughs are cuboid in shape, with growth only happening in one direction, up. HPHT roughs form cuboctahedron shapes, due to the crystal growing in 14 directions.

For us at ORYS, lab-grown diamonds represent scientific innovation combined with exceptional craftsmanship. Their production through green energy allows us to offer diamond jewelry at more accessible prices, while letting us prioritize design innovation.

Common Myths About Lab Diamonds

One of the most common misconceptions is that lab-grown diamonds are "fake”. According to both the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, lab diamonds are diamonds. They differ from natural diamonds only in their origin, provided that origin is accurately disclosed to consumers (GIA, n.d.; FTC, 2018).

Do lab diamonds sparkle less? A diamond's brilliance depends primarily on the quality of its cut rather than whether it formed underground or in a laboratory.

It is also important to distinguish diamonds from diamond simulants, such as cubic zirconia and moissanite. Although these diamond simulants may resemble diamonds visually, they have different chemical compositions and physical properties and are not considered diamonds (GIA, n.d.).

Comparing Natural Diamonds and Lab Diamonds

The most significant difference between natural and lab diamonds is their origin. Natural diamonds are geological creations formed over billions of years, while lab-grown diamonds are created over several weeks using advanced manufacturing processes.

Availability also differs. Natural diamonds are finite resources recovered through mining, whereas lab-grown diamonds can be produced to meet market demand. This difference contributes to the generally lower retail price of lab diamonds.

Environmental and ethical considerations are also important for many buyers. Both industries continue to evolve, with responsible mining initiatives improving transparency within the natural diamond sector, laboratory-grown diamond producers are likewise investing in renewable energy and more efficient production methods. As the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) notes, transparent disclosure and informed consumer choice remain the most important principles regardless of a diamond's origin (CIBJO, 2021).

How to Choose the Right Diamond?

There is no universally "better" diamond. The right choice depends on what matters most to you.

Some people are drawn to the rarity and geological history of natural diamonds, while others appreciate the innovation and accessibility of lab diamonds. Budget, design preferences, sentimental value, and personal beliefs all influence the decision.

Regardless of origin, choosing a high-quality diamond from a reputable jeweler or brand, supported by independent grading or identification, helps ensure confidence in your purchase (GIA, n.d.).

Tradition and Innovation Can Coexist

The rise of lab diamonds does not mean that is has replaced natural diamonds, rather, it has broadened the choices available to our customers. At ORYS we believe the value of a diamond extends beyond where and how it was formed. Our philosophy is that exceptional craftsmanship, meaningful design, and the memories associated with a piece of jewelry are what give it lasting significance. We have chosen to use lab diamonds to create jewelry that tells a story or captures a moment in time. Whether natural or laboratory-grown, the most important diamond is the one that reflects the life of the person who wears it.

References

Balmer, R. S., Brandon, J. R., Clewes, S. L., Dhillon, H. K., Dodson, J. M., Friel, I., Inglis, P. N., Madgwick, T. D., Markham, M. L., Mollart, T. P., Perkins, N., Scarsbrook, G. A., Twitchen, D. J., Whitehead, A. J., Wilman, J. J., & Woollard, S. M. (2009). Chemical vapour deposition synthetic diamond: Materials, technology and applications. Journal of Physics: Condensed Matter, 21(36). https://doi.org/10.1088/0953-8984/21/36/364221

CIBJO – The World Jewellery Confederation. (2021). Laboratory-Grown Diamond Guidelines. https://cibjo.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/CIBJO-LGD-Guidelines-2021-1.pdf

Federal Trade Commission. (2018). Jewelry Guides. https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/topics/tools-consumers/jewelry-guides

Gemological Institute of America. (n.d.). About Laboratory-Grown Diamonds. https://4cs.gia.edu/interactive-4cs/more-diamond-info/synthetics.html

Gemological Institute of America. (2019). Is There a Difference Between Natural and Laboratory-Grown Diamonds?. https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/difference-between-natural-laboratory-grown-diamonds

Gemological Institute of America. (n.d.). Simulants, Moissanite and Lab-Grown Diamonds. https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/simulants-moissanite-and-lab-grown-diamonds/